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Boldness is its most prominent title.. This is how the rules of the game changed at Paris Fashion Week

- Paris Fashion Week, one of the most prominent arenas of the fashion industry and the most influential in determining its trends, is witnessing a rising momentum with the launch of its events, attracting a select group of Arab and international stars, and the most notable names in the fashion world. The opening day of the Spring/Summer 2027 season was characterized by shows that took an intellectual and experimental direction, including a presentation by the creative duo behind "Matier Fical" from France, and Swedish designer Eileen Hudakova Larson, winner of the LVMH prize, Julie Kiggles.

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New Face 24

·3 minutes read

Boldness is its most prominent title.. This is how the rules of the game changed at Paris Fashion Week

- The Paris Fashion Week, one of the most prominent arenas in the fashion industry and a major influencer in setting its trends, is witnessing a growing momentum with the launch of its events, attracting a select group of Arab and international stars, along with the most notable names in the fashion world. The opening day of the Spring/Summer 2027 season featured shows that took a conceptual and experimental direction, including a presentation by the creative duo behind the French brand "Matiere Focale," and Swedish designer Eileen Hudakova Larson, winner of the LVMH Prize, Julie Kegels.

On the second day, attention shifted to more grandiose shows with major French houses, including "Dior" and "Saint Laurent," which significantly elevated the level of production. "Maison Margiela" also returned to the runway with a new collection signed by designer Glenn Martens, who continued to present his unconventional approach to fashion.

In a decor dominated by wilted flowers, Martens showcased designs that broke away from conventional molds, featuring knee-high boots that revealed toes, sculpted jackets, and open-chest shirts, while floral prints intertwined with the surrounding decor of the stage. The "Saint Laurent" collection was a golden one amidst speculations about Vaccarello. The "Saint Laurent" show, held under the Eiffel Tower and considered one of the highlights of Paris Fashion Week, gained additional attention this season amid speculation that this might be the last collection for creative director Anthony Vaccarello, after ten years spent at the house. The collection was dominated by gold in various shades and materials, clearly recalling elements associated with the era of Yves Saint Laurent, from safari-inspired jackets and trench coats to wrapped skirts.

In contrast, the more modern cuts, including oversized "blouson" jackets, reflected Vaccarello's influence in developing the house's language during his tenure as creative director. The show concluded with a musical performance by French-British singer and actress Charlotte Gainsbourg.

Jonathan Anderson redefines romance at "Dior". Jonathan Anderson presented his new collection for "Dior" in the Tuileries Gardens in Paris, drawing on the romantic character associated with the house's history, but through a more modern and less traditional approach. The show was held around a circular pool in extremely hot weather, while the collection included skirts, shirts, and pieces made from layers of chiffon cut into circles.

Transparent and lightweight jackets were present, alongside designs that relied on delicate fabrics and movement, forming the foundation of Anderson's vision of romance. However, the collection was not limited to soft elements; the designer introduced sharper details, including metallic pants with a snake-skin effect, and arrangements that kept shirts flowing over the trousers, along with a mix of squares and various patterns within a single look.

In this way, Anderson combined romantic elements with a modern style, moving away from the traditional image of soft femininity. A bold show and rich in messages at a time when fashion brands, amid economic pressures, are tending to reduce risks and avoid shows that might provoke controversy, 'Matier Vical' chose to present a direct message in its show.

The models walked the runway carrying dolls representing members of the wealthy elite, in a scene that quickly sparked widespread interaction online. Rihanna's presence in the front row was one of the highlights of interest in the show. 'I'm not interested in provocation.'

This phrase concluded the notes from the American brand 'Tom Ford,' signed by French designer Haider Ackermann, who continues to work on linking the brand with sensual fashion through a calmer and more confident approach without direct provocation. Boldness appeared in the new collection through sharp openings that reveal parts of the body, and details that showcase the underwear.

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